Every pet gets sick at some point and snakes are no different. The fact that they can easily live in excess of 20 years means they have a lot more time to get sick than many other animals. If you recognize that your snake has become sick it is important to know what to do.

A sick snake needs immediate attention

A snake can’t communicate with us by way of verbalization, and it doesn’t have a body language that we can understand. This makes it important to take action promptly because there’s a good chance it has been ill for a while.

If you’re not a vet don’t pretend to be

Most people like to take a wait and see approach when it comes to medical issues. Both with themselves and with their animals. If your snake is sick your first step should be to contact your veterinarian for guidance. Be sure to offer the following information:

1. The age of the snake (as best as you know it)
2. Species of the snake
3. Approximate length and weight of the animal
4. Last meal it had (date and what was eaten)
5. Last time your snake shed
6. Last time it went to the bathroom

The vet will very likely ask you additional questions about the snake’s appearance and behavior so it is best to make the call while observing the snake. Then do what the vet tells you to do. If you are told to bring it in trust their judgment as a professional and take it in. If you don’t trust them then you might want to start looking for a different vet now before you have to deal with a sick pet.

What to do when the vet isn’t in and your snake is sick

Maybe it is the weekend, or a holiday. Could be your vet is just taking a vacation. Whatever the reason if you can’t get in touch with them you can either try contacting another vet or handling the problem on your own. Contacting another vet is the best course of action and most towns and cities (in the United States) have a system in place where certain vets are on call for emergencies after hours and on holidays. The downside is that you will normally pay a little more than a regular visit during working hours.

If you find it necessary to deal with the illness yourself there are some things that you can do to help. First of all your safety comes first. Observe safe handling rules. In other words do NOT put yourself at risk trying to work with a large snake without help

• Make sure the snake is in a quiet area
• Double check temperatures and humidity in the cage
• Don’t handle your pet more than necessary
• Observe the snake for further signs of illness
• Don’t feed it, but make sure it has fresh clean water
• Be patient because the snake will probably be uncomfortable and defensive

Indications your snake may be sick

These are some common indications that your snake is possibly sick. Remember, unless you are a veterinarian you shouldn’t presume one way or another but these symptoms should make you take notice. These are also not the only symptoms you may see. Just some that are common.

• Wheezing and/or saliva around the snake’s mouth: Indication of Respiratory Infection (RI)
• “Star gazing”; This is when the head and neck of the snake is raised nearly straight up as if they were looking at stars: Indication of Inclusion Body Disease
• Incomplete or patchy sheds. A healthy, properly kept snake will shed in one piece: This doesn’t indicate a specific illness just a general concern
• Blisters or abscesses: Infection and/or scale rot

As a final word please note that none of the advise you find in here, or anywhere else online is an appropriate substitute for a trained, qualified professional. This is meant to give you a starting point, but as quickly as possible get your vet involved and follow their guidance in caring for your sick pet snake.

Today I came across an article about a man who called animal control on his pet boa at 3am in the morning. Here’s a short excerpt so you are caught up on what we’re going to discuss and why.

Initially when I read the article I was angry. Angry that Mr. Simpson was already planning on getting another snake. Angry that he had so easily turned the one he had over to animal control. Then I thought about it for a moment and realized that this could easily be myself or anyone else. It’s only through experience that you begin to learn how to deal with having an exotic pet such as a snake. They are entirely different and are not comparable to any other pet a person might have.

In the past I’ve written about both of the subjects that this man was dealing with. Most recently I gave my reasons why I believe that you should feed a snake in its own cage. A couple of readers disagreed with the idea that it is better to feed a snake in its own cage. The incident described in this news report is a prime example of why I believe very strongly in feeding a snake in it’s own cage. Before anyone winds up with the written barrage of reasons that I’m wrong let me say this; Had this boa’s owner (Mr. Simpson) fed his animal in its own cage you would not be reading this article right now.

What went wrong?

Since I wasn’t there I can only speculate based on the news article but it seems the following mistakes were made:

The feeding was an after thought
I base this on the fact that in the article it says it was 3am in the morning and they had to be to work by 8am. It was like they had a “Oh no! We forgot to feed the snake!” moment.

They weren’t ready to deal with an aggressive snake
Sometimes we forget that a snake is a wild animal and will act (or react) like a wild animal. I believe it is safe to say that we’ve all made that mistake. When the animal that spends hours draped around our shoulders becomes a monster straight out of a horror movie it can catch us off gaurd.

One of the first articles I wrote for this site was about handling aggressive snakes. There’s nothing to indicate that Mr. Simpson improperly handled the snake, but thought this would be a good opportunity to take a moment to look at some basic tenants of handling aggressive snakes.

The snake was cold
It says the snake was in the tub with the rat. I assume it was in a cold empty tub. Going from a warm, climate controlled cage to a cold bathtub could easily make the snake decide it wasn’t hungry. Snakes aren’t known for their tolerance of temperature changes, especially extremes. Now of course I could be wrong and the tub could have been heated prior to putting the boa in there, but given that this sounds like it was a last minute feeding that would be surprising.

They got impatient
Ultimately when the snake wouldn’t eat and it was time to put it back in its own cage the snake wasn’t cooperating and the owners got impatient with it. It was late, they had to be up in about 5 hours, and now this six foot long boa was cranky. I’d probably be a little impatient myself. Unfortunately being impatient leads to irrational actions which probably just irritated the snake even more.

What could they have done differently?

Once again this is speculation, but it is food for thought:

Plan the feeding
If you have a snake you know it needs to eat approximately once a week. That’s just a general rule of thumb for most snakes. It’s hard to believe that after having had the animal for any amount of time feeding day just snuck up on them. Sometimes I feed my snakes at 2am but I know well ahead of time when feeding day is. All my animals are fed on either Friday or Saturday. It’s not a surprise. I don’t suddenly walk past the cages and realize they haven’t been fed so I need to drag them out at the last minute.

There could have been circumstances beyond their control which prevented feeding Lucious (the boa’s name) at any time other than this but based on what was reported that is doubtful.

Always expect the unexpected
People say it all the time “Oh my snake would NEVER harm a flea!” Which I’m sorry to say is complete nonsense. A snake is not a domestic animal. It is a wild animal. It might get used to you, and even put up with you but in the end it is a creature driven by the instincts that God gave it. For someone to assume that a snake, just because it has been a pet, is actually tame is at best foolish. It can also be deadly if you are working alone with large contrictors.

A warm snake is a happy snake
Since snakes rely on their surroundings to regulate their temperatures putting it in a cold bathtub is going to leave the snake very few options. When a snake isn’t comfortable (being cold as a prime example) it isn’t going to eat. Mistakes in temperatures is a major reason that people have trouble getting their pet snake to feed. Now it sounds like being fed in the bathtub was fairly routine for this snake but for some reason on this particular night it wasn’t having any of it. Another reason to feed the snake in its own cage.

Waited until the next day
Snakes are known for going for weeks and even months without eating. Just going to bed and feeding it the next day (or even a week later) would have been the best course of action.

Ultimately they gave up the boa after having to call animal control because it had become aggressive. Had the snake been fed in its own cage they could have just gone to bed and either dealt with it in the morning or the rat would have been eaten. Of course I’m assuming this was a pre-killed or frozen/thawed rat and not a living one. If it was a living rat then obviously they would have had to deal with it before heading off to bed.

What are your thoughts on this? Would you have done anything differently? Agree or disagree with what has been said here?

More and more snake owners are taking the preventative step of having their pets microchipped. For years now dog and cat owners have enjoyed the peace of mind that comes with this small measure. Countless pets have been returned to their rightful owners due to people having the foresight to have the procedure done. With this article we will take a look at what it means to microchip your snake and how it can benefit you.

A little about the microchip

There are several different companies which market pet microchips but they all work the same. The chip is implanted under your snakes skin using a special hypodermic needle. It is approximately the size of a grain of rice and coated in a special resin that helps to ensure the snake’s body won’t reject it as a foreign substance. It works by passing a hand held scanner over the area of the snake’s body where the chip has been implanted. The scanner activates the embedded microchip which then sends a radio signal to the scanner that contains the unique id number of that microchip. The vet or shelter worker using the scanner is then able to look the information up in a database and contact the owner of the animal (assuming the contact information is up to date).

Deciding to get your snake microchipped

In some places you are required by law to get certain species of snakes “chipped”. In the US state of Florida for example large snakes and monitors are required to be microchipped and licensed (if you live in Flordia check with your local authorities to find out the exact species which fall under this law). There is a movement in the US to require all “large” boas, pythons, and lizards to be microchipped.

If you aren’t living in Florida and aren’t required by law to get your snake microchipped you should do so anyways. It will give you peace of mind and for the $10 to $25 it costs (depending on where it is done and by whom) there’s no reason not to do it. The best time is when you take your snake in for a normal checkup. Some people say that the chance of a snake getting out is so slim that they can’t justify the need for a microchip. It’s true that snakes aren’t as likely to get lose and roam the neighborhood as dogs or cats you only need to watch the news a few times to see a story about animal control trying to find the owner of a lost Boa Constrictor.

Who should you let microchip your snake?

The best person to have do this is a vet who specializes in herpatological medicine. They will be the most familiar with your snake’s anatomy and best able to safely perform the procedure. Many animal shelters will also do it, but be careful about using them. The staff will probably know how to chip a mammal, but snake’s are different.

After care

There is really no special after care needed. The whole process takes a few seconds to do and as long as you do what is possible to minimize the stress there’s not much else to worry about. Once you get your snake home just let it rest in its cage for a couple of days. Keep an eye on the snake, especially the area where the microchip was implanted just to be a good steward. If you notice swelling, bleeding, scabbing, puss or anything else that looks abnormal contact the vet and see what they say to do. In 99.99999% of cases you’ll never even realize the snake has been implanted with a chip.

If you are still not sure about getting a microchip for your pet snake remember that if your snake were to go missing or be stolen the chances of ever seeing it again without the chip are almost nonexistent. With the chip at least there’s a chance that a shelter or vet will find it in a routine scan of the animal.

A common question that we often get from new snake owners is in regards to keeping more than one snake per tank. There are a few schools of thought in regards to this. Here at Pet-Snakes we subscribe to the following. No. We will go into greater detail why we believe it is a bad idea to house snakes together, but for those of you who want the summary version this is it.

It is better safe than sorry. The possibility of cannibalism and the spread of disease are too great a risk to your snake to house them together. Those aren’t the only problems that can arise but they are the most notable. There is also the likelihood of feeding problems creeping up.

Cannibalism in snakes kept together

The most (in)famous snakes species when it comes to cannibalism are the King Snakes and the King Cobra. Both regularly make a meal of other snakes. All species of snakes however have to one extent or another a cannibalistic nature. 9 out of 10 times you’ll never see it manifest but at some point it will. It is simply not worth the risk when providing a cage for each snake is so inexpensive and simple.

Diseases among snakes kept together

There’s a reason that proper quarantine procedures are needed when new snakes are introduced to a collection. It could literally save you thousands of dollars in vet bills as well as the lives of your animals. When you one day decide to bring a new addition to your snake “family” home and toss it in with an established snake you throw quarantine right out the window. Just because a snake looks healthy at the breeder or pet store doesn’t mean it is. It can take several months for symptoms to develop and that’s why snake owners tend to quarantine new animals from their existing collections for 3 to 6 months.

Feeding issues when housing snakes together

If cannibalism and disease aren’t reason enough not to house snakes together then consider feeding. Snakes are by nature solitary animals. The don’t hang out together (except when breeding and brumating) or “pal around”. When you put two snakes together one will quickly become the dominant animal in the cage. You’ll notice it is always the one who eats. The submissive snake won’t eat; the “alpha” snake won’t let it. A snake that is forced not to eat by another snake will quickly deteriorate in terms of health and temperament.

In closing with the exception of breeding when they obviously have to be together don’t risk the health and safety of your snakes. House them one per tank so you don’t have to worry about it. If you can’t afford a secondary setup for another snake then take a look at our tutorial for building a very low cost snake cage. If you still can’t afford it perhaps it is best to wait until you can.

Many people know that snakes carry salmonella, but very few people actually understand what it is beyond something to be avoided at all costs. This article will provide factual information about the bacteria, how it is spread, and how to prevent infection.

What is salmonella?

Salmonella is a bacteria which causes salmonellosis. It manifests as abdominal cramps, diarrhea, and fever anywhere from 12 to 72 hours after infection. Symptoms commonly last anywhere from 4 to 7 days. In most cases treatment is not necessary however if diarrhea is severe enough hospitalization may be required to properly treat the infection. The very young, elderly and those with a compromised immune system are the most likely to require hospitalization.

When was salmonella discovered?

The salmonella bacteria was discovered by Theobald Smith in 1885 when he isolated it from pigs. It was named after Smith’s director, Daniel Elmer Salmon at the suggestion of French bacteriologist Joseph Léon Marcel Ligniéres in 1900.

Where is salmonella found?

It is commonly found in uncooked foods (eggs, and pork for example) and in the intestinal tracts of common household and exotic pets. Because it is in the intestines it just makes sense that it is also in the feces of many animals.

How is salmonella spread?

Salmonella is spread by ingesting the bacteria. Most commonly this occurs by eating raw (truly raw, unpasterized eggs, and milk) foods and handling animals but failing to wash your hands and then putting them near your face.
The risk of being infected by a snake is actually very low assuming proper precaution is taken. Washing your hands before and after handling a snake or cleaning its cage will go a long ways towards preventing any transmission of the bacteria to you.

Salmonella in snakes

It should be pointed out that nearly ALL animals carry salmonella. Snakes get a particularly bad rap because, well because they’re snakes and it’s just another reason to fear them for many people. But reality is that a few common sense precautions will all but erradicte the risk of infection. Strangely enough those precautions are the same for snakes as any other animals…

• Wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap before and after you handle any reptiles and between handling different ones
• Keep the snake’s cage clean at all times so it is less likely to crawl through it’s own urine and feces. If this does happen bathe the snake as soon as possible
• Keep the snake away from your face at all times. A good practice regardless of salmonella or not

The truth is that if you’ve stuck your hands in to a batch of raw cookie dough or cake batter you’ve put yourself at risk for salmonella. If you’re like most people not only have you done that, but you’ve also licked the raw batter from a spoon or fork. With proper precaution a snake presents no more of a risk of infection than doing that or petting your dog that just “rolled in something smelly” out in the backyard.

It is important to quarantine a new pet snake from any other snakes when you bring it home. The primary reason is the health and safety of you collection, but also because it allows your new snake to get settled in. There are a few things you’ll need to do in order to prepare so be sure to give yourself enough time to do everything.

Set up the quarantine area

Ideally you’ll be able to dedicate an entire separate room to be used, but for many people that isn’t possible. At least make sure the new snake is as far away from your other snakes as possible. When I don’t have an extra room I like to place my new snake setup in a closet with a door. Even though it isn’t technically a different room it gives that extra degree of separation.

When you get the snake home (or in the mail) the only thing you want to do is to quickly inspect it and then put it in its newly quarantined habitat. This means everything needs to be setup before that time comes. In case you aren’t familiar or need a refresher take a look at this article about taking care of your first pet snake. It will tell you exactly what you’ll need to provide for your newest snake.

Aside from the separation the most important part of quarantine is that each snake has its own PERSONAL care items. Do NOT cross contaminate the equipment by allowing it to be used between various snakes.

Plan for the long haul

Some people say the quarantine should last a year, others 6 months, and still others say 3 months. That’s a decision you need to make based on what you are comfortable with. A good length of time is a 3 month “hard” quarantine (totally separate rooms) followed by a 3 month “soft” quarantine (opposite sides of the same room).

If you have family or room mates it is also important to involve them so they know what is going on so they’ll know how everything is supposed to work.

Final thoughts on quarantine

Here are some final things to think about when you are quarantining pet snakes.

• Spend time with each animal. Even while they are in quarantine you should be enjoying the new arrivals on a daily basis once the initial settling in period has passed
• Each time a new snake comes into the quarantine room the clock should be rest to day 0 for all of them. It might sound drastic but it is better to keep them separated than to introduce something to your general collection.
• Quarantined animals should have the bare necessities in their tanks and nothing more. Don’t worry about pretty decor keep it simple. Newspaper substrate, a water bowl, and a hide are all there should be in the tank
• Record keeping is important in general, but especially important when it comes to quarantined animals
• Clearly label the quarantine area with a sign saying exactly what is there and why. This way no one can “just forget” about it

Finally here is a video talking about the importance of quarantining your new snakes. In this case it is “only” a case of mites, but it could be much more serious.